Red and blue light therapy can help reduce wrinkles and acne. I spoke to a dermatologist and donned a few masks to test their efficacy.
How Does Light Therapy Work?
The right types of light can have a positive effect on the skin. Red light therapy utilizes near-infrared light and can help with wrinkles, while blue light therapy uses wavelengths of blue light to help kill acne-causing bacteria.
Collagen and elastin, proteins that help improve elasticity in the skin and reduce wrinkles, are produced by fibroblast cells in the dermis of the skin—the middle layer, under your epidermis, which is the outer layer. Red light LEDs penetrate the dermis and can stimulate the production of these proteins to help reduce wrinkles, according to Abigail Waldman, clinical director of the Mohs and Dermatologic Surgery Center at Brigham and Women’s Hospital.
Research funded by NASA has revealed that red light can also speed up the healing process in some injuries. “High-intensity red and near-infrared LEDs significantly accelerated the healing of oxygen-deprived wounds in rats and also sped the growth and proliferation of skin, bone, and muscle cell cultures from mice and rats,” it was reported. NASA supplied LED devices to the US Navy to treat training injuries. Those who used the LEDs had a 40 percent improvement in musculoskeletal injuries and 50 percent faster healing for lacerations over the control group.
Blue light, on the other hand, penetrates the epidermis, the top layer of skin, killing acne-causing bacteria. “It also reportedly helps to regulate oil production and reduce inflammation, leading to clearer skin,” says Shoshana Marmon, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant professor of dermatology at New York Medical College.
Topical retinoids, like over-the-counter retinol and prescription tretinoin, can also treat wrinkles and texture by slowing the breakdown of collagen and increasing skin cell turnover. Both retinol and LEDs typically take several months to see results, but retinoids come with more side effects, such as increased breakouts and sometimes flaky, burning skin.
Unfortunately, not everyone will see results from red or blue light therapy—and this might contribute to the suspicion around these devices and whether they work. You won't know until you try, though you should talk to a dermatologist to see what they recommend based on your skin type. Waldman says there's no reason to believe red light could be harmful if you're pregnant or breastfeeding, but as there isn't much research involving pregnant women, you should consult your physician first. We also recommend making sure the device you're considering is FDA-cleared.
Wavelengths Explained
Light therapy devices are often quite costly, but there's good reason: You can't get the same effect with just any red LED from the hardware store. If the wavelength isn't strong enough, it won't penetrate your skin—sorry to the one sitting in front of a heated chicken lamp.
These are the typical wavelengths, measured in nanometers, to look for:
- Red light therapy commonly uses wavelengths in the 630 to 660 nanometer range, with the lowest effective wavelength around 600 nanometers.
- Near-infrared red lights are commonly 800 to 1,400 nanometers. These penetrate deeper into the skin and are used mostly for healing and reducing inflammation.
- Blue light is typically 405 to 420 nanometers to kill acne-causing bacteria.
How to Use Red Light Therapy and LED Face Masks
LED light therapy doesn't work for everyone, but consistency is crucial if you want to try it. If you don't think you'll remember to use a light therapy mask multiple times a week, you won't see results, and it won't be worth the money.
Follow the directions for the specific device you're using, but in general you'll want to wash and dry your face and use the mask before applying any skin-care products. Devices should have a set session time, usually between three and 10 minutes. Use it for the full time unless it feels uncomfortable. Apply your skin care after as normal, focusing on hydrating serums or moisturizers, especially if you're prone to dryness. Do not use these masks longer than indicated in their directions.
While you can use red light therapy and retinoids in your routine, the doesn't recommend using them simultaneously, as it can increase the chance of irritation.
Take some photos before you start using a mask so you can track progress. You may not see dramatic results immediately, but with photos you can at least tell whether something is happening.
Our Testing and Recommendations
I tried the Omnilux Contour LED mask, which is among the most popular LED face masks. The red light wavelengths are 633 nanometers, and near-infrared are 830 nanometers. It has preprogrammed 10-minute sessions, and the company says to use it three to five times a week for four to six weeks. Then you'll want to keep up the results by using the device occasionally after that.
Six weeks was not long enough for me to see results—I ended up using it for three months straight. Sadly, I didn't notice much of a difference in my wrinkles. Some people may see results sooner, but says that three months is typically the earliest amount of time that you'd see results. “You didn’t get wrinkles overnight, and they’re not going to go away overnight. Consistency and patience are key,” she says.
What We’re Testing Next
When we test LED masks and devices, we have to stick to one for a few months to see whether it truly works based on the advice of the professional dermatologists we spoke to. We use them five or so times a week, noting any results in the mirror or, where possible, compared to before photos.